‘The English person with a Chinese stomach’: how Fuchsia Dunlop became a Sichuan food hero

‘The English person with a Chinese stomach’: how Fuchsia Dunlop became a Sichuan food hero

The author has been explaining Sichuan cuisine to westerners for decades. But ‘Fu Xia’, as she’s known, has had a profound effect on food lovers in China, tooEvery autumn in the mid-00s, when I lived in China, my friend Scarlett Li would invite me to Shanghai to eat hairy crab. Named for the spiky fur on their legs and claws, the crabs are said to have the best flavour during the ninth month of the lunar calendar. They’re steamed and served whol…